by LUKE LEITCH
Thinking about it, this has been among the least floral Spring/Summer seasons in recent memory. Into that breach this afternoon stepped Elie Saab with a collection that featured more blooms than a nursery. Embroidered on lace, laser-cut on leather, printed on silks, collaged in sequin, and shadowed on a hologram-effect treated diaphanous organza, Saab heaped his signature silhouettes with the enduringly irresistible botanical expressions of colorful fertility. There were some pieces in which the woman wearing the Saab was not obliged to compete with the florals: long gowns in vertically striped pleated sequin with scarab silhouettes on the chest, single-color dramatically cut gowns in more sequin, perhaps three black or white day suits, and a suite of rib-lined leopard-pattern pieces. Many looks were accessorized with two box bags in studded black leather slung by black leather straps across the shoulder, and gold heavy-link chain necklaces into which were inset gleaming jewellike crystals. His gowns set in panels of floral fabric that were delineated by brass-color rivets were a particularly convincing expression of a romantically inclined floral-adoring woman of means who will wear as many damned flowers as she pleases, thank you, and she’ll feel both strong and self-assured while doing so. Saab is a hardy perennial.